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We had asked for 60 metres of 10 mm chain and a 20 kg Bruce anchor to be
fitted to our new Maxi 1100 which is berthed in the Clyde. Unfortunately, the stemhead fitting was narrower at
one end than the other and the chain jammed there repeatedly. The chain also
jammed in the windlass several times, every time we let it out to anchor,
although it could usually be retrieved without jamming. To add to all of this
the windlass was not powerful enough to lift the chain and anchor if the
anchorage was deep or weedy!!!!!
The stemhead fitting was removed, straightened out and replaced. It now seems
that the windlass itself jammed because it was installed too far aft and we are
now faced with fitting a more powerful windlass and making sure that it is
installed correctly. A warning to others who might be contemplating beefed up
ground tackle for the MAXI 1100! As we had to anchor virtually all the time that
we were out, often in pretty awful conditions, the inability to get the chain
down in less than 5 minutes was a dreadful problem!
Laurie Prescott
A DRIER ANCHOR LOCKER
The anchor chain locker is generally a damp and hostile environment
especially for any electrics, i.e. the windlass. After hosing down the anchor
chain, despite Maxis having self-draining lockers, the chain & warp are left in
a shallow pool of water, which unless you have the time to leave the locker
hatch open, will take ages to dry out.
A simple wood grating, can be made of rot proof treated timber {I used 1″ x ½″
slats for a garden trellis}
The next time you are at anchor, lay the grating at the base of the locker, so
that the chain etc. will lie on top when hauled in.
This I find gives an airing effect under the chain and dries the locker that
much quicker.
Barry Powling, Khamsin {Brittany France}
![[New!]](../../images/smallnew.gif) An
alternative to a wooden grating has been used by Peter Stonestreet on his 1000.
He cut the corner off a plastic bottle crate. By careful sizing, the
tetrahedron fills the bottom corner well.
Most modern Maxi Yachts (along with many other makes of
yacht) are fitted with Volvo Penta engines
with sail-drives. It is essential to understand how the anodes protect the
saildrive and the prop, and to test/inspect at appropriate times...
 | Galvanic protection to the saildrive installation is implemented
using a ring anode bolted to the sail-drive leg. This anode protects the leg and
sometimes the propeller from corrosion. If this anode doesn't work
properly or replaced when worn, your saildrive may corrode -
horribly expensive! Later models of saildrive anode can be replaced
without removing the propeller. |
| The two and three bladed folding
propellers currently use anodes bolted to the propeller for galvanic protection.
Older propellers (and some non-Volvo-Penta folding props) do not have these anodes and rely on the leg anode for
protection. |
| The Volvo-Penta folding propeller fitted with anodes is electrically isolated from the
propeller shaft, the propeller without anodes is not. The anodes are
intended to reduce the risk of dezincification, which makes the prop very
fragile: you can tell if dezincification has occurred by the reddish colour
and a dull metallic sound instead of a clean "ring" when tapped. |
| The Leg anode only
protects the leg as the leg is electrically isolated from the engine. Owners
should ensure that additional electrical work does not electrically connect the
leg to the engine or electrical ground. My opinion is that additional hull
anodes connected to the engine ground will not have any effect on leg or
propeller corrosion. |
Related topics: 1100 propeller
size, Rope cutters,
Propellers and Anodes,
Mick
Since we sailed our Maxi 38+ to the Algarve & left it
there over the winter, we will need it to be antifouled before proceeding to The
Med next year. I therefore contacted the chandlers/marine paint shop to
check prices & found that a 2.5 litre tin cost 51% more than in the UK. So
I started enquiries with the manufacturer in the Southampton area & they have
sent emails to & fro Denmark/Portugal/Spain & I think I now have the price down
to UK levels BUT that was not the main problem!
In the UK, antifoul is called by a trade descriptive name
whether it be eroding or hard & it also has a code number. In other
countries the paint is also given descriptive names with a code number,
e.g. "Hard Racing" but that term does mean the same as "Hard Racing" in UK!!
So whatever antifoul paint one uses in the UK, it has a code number & that
number has to be used if one wishes to continue using a compatible paint when
purchasing it in another country.
I was confused when informed that I should use "Hard Racing"
over my existing eroding paint & this confusion was at first also experienced by
the UK subsidiary manufacturer/supplier.
Hugh Rowan
Jan 2006
If your batteries are not sealed make sure you check the water level at least every 3 months and do you have an easy device to fill
- and can you see the level?
Hugh Rowan
I
have fitted a fused mini siren with an on/off switch to the + & -
wiring of my automatic bilge pump. To my thoughts, the auto bilge should not
normally run under normal circumstances. And if it does while sailing or motoring, it probably
won't be heard. With the siren wired in, it will give you an early warning of water
being where it shouldn't be.
Barry Powling 'Khamsin'
Sometimes the hob burners won't stay lit when the knob is released:
Solution: Hold the knob in, light the gas and after waiting 5 seconds for the
flame sensor to heat up, let the knob out about 1 mm (1/16") and then press the
knob back in sharply, then release the knob.
The oven and grill won't stay lit when the knob is released.
If you have a cooker with metal knobs the oven/grill knob may be fixed too
far in on the shaft preventing the flame detection mechanism from engaging.
Solution is to loosen the knob retaining screw (using an allen key) and move the
knob back on the shaft, then tighten the screw. You should have the same or
slightly larger gap between the knob and cooker as that for the burner knobs.
Taranaki
An inexpensive method is to save used ice cream 1 litre plastic oval and rectangular containers, or similar. Punch 1.5 mm holes in the bottom of the oval container then support it in the rectangular box by clipping with 2 clothes pegs. With a sealed bag of granules obtained from a DIY store, empty into the box. This is likely to produce about a tablespoon of water every 4 days (must have been a canny laddie who thought this one up?)
Hugh Rowan
We adopted an alternative solution on our Maxi 1100. We've strapped
a cheap B&Q domestic dehumidifier to a backing sheet which is mounted under the
starboard flap of the saloon table. It's mounted a couple of inches above
the floor so you don't lose too much space for feet, and a permanent drain is
made very neatly via plastic tubing into the bilge by the float switch.
It's run via a time clock every few days when we're not on board. When we
are, we can always run overnight to help keep the inside sweet and dry.
Obviously you can't lower the flap with it in place but it can be quickly and
easily removed
with just two small neat screws underneath the table. We wouldn't recommend
running it when stored ashore as I prefer to keep the bilge dry in case it
freezes.
Vouvray
The Volvo Penta MD22L fitted to the Maxi 38 has a 18mm diameter core plug
fitted to the heat exchanger… and is virtually inaccessible. The plugs rarely
(if ever) fail and so they are not available as spares. So read how Caorann
spent £166 searching for a solution that did not necessitate removing or
replacing the whole heat exchanger. The solution is to tap the plug hole and fit
a new threaded plug. See the Member's Message board in the
Member's section for the whole
story.
LESS ENGINE WEAR
Most wear from an engine occurs when started from cold. After safety checks
are made, I start my Ardic heater on the hot water cycle only, after
approximately half an hour you will find that the engine’s cooling system is
almost up to operating temperature, {if the heater has been installed correctly}
This will enable you to leave your berth that much quicker after engine start
and dispense with a lengthy warm up run, much to the annoyance of your
neighbour. This is particularly beneficial for prolonged engine life if you are
able to make sail soon after leaving the berth, as otherwise without this
preheating, the engine would not have reached it’s normal operating temperature.
Barry Powling, Khamsin {Brittany France}
Some time ago there was some discussion about fitting sea water filters to
the Maxi 1100 Volvo 2030 diesel. Most owners
would want to fit one even if the risk of blockage is low (as it is here on the
W Coast of Scotland). We have had the Vetus strainer fitted to all our Maxi's
and you would be surprised to see what ends up in it! We have even had hundreds
of small mussels in it on occasion. The best place to fit it is on the upper
port wall of the engine compartment as this photo (looking aft) illustrates.
The Vetus filter is fitted between the seacock on the saildrive and the inlet of
the seawater pump. It has a transparent top which you can look through to
see if it is clear and the top unscrews easily. It is also easy to see at
glance whether the seawater is flowing.
Laurie Prescott, Rona
Bob Garrett, who had his saildrive gasket on his Maxi 1000 replaced by a
Volvo dealer, said he was advised that "a seawater filter would reduce the
risk of blockage and reduce grit getting through and wearing the pump. They
suggested a Vetus was as good as any and suggested it should be mounted on the
starboard wall of the engine compartment as they felt there was enough room
there."
We've also heard from Mike Allen who keeps his Maxi 100 Lopud at
Conwy:
"We have a strainer fitted. It is cast stainless with a clear plastic lid,
mounted to the mast support pillar with its own bracket, above the water line
for cleaning (needs priming too). We catch mussels, shrimps and weed - but not
enough to eat. There was some sand in the bottom when I cleaned it out
recently, but I guess most sand/mud goes straight through to the pump - the
strainer is too coarse to catch it.
Chris W (webmaster) has been watching this discussion
with interest, as Vouvray's raw-water pump had to be overhauled this year
(800 odd hours) and Volspec warned that the impeller housing was worn quite
badly (but not enough so far to affect water flow too much): apparently this is
quite common in East Coast sandy waters.
Dec 2006
  I
am pleased to report that the Nanni diesel is now installed in my Maxi 95 and
works wonderfully - smoooth and quieter than the original Volvo.
Of course the old Volvo had no waterlock but the
volume of water going through it was considerably smaller - especially in mine
latterly judging by the steam that came out! So I've had to work out
how to fit a waterlock which should be sited lower than the engine but this is
impossible as the engine is so low being on the saloon floor. Well, what I
have done is to fit the Vetus NLP which is an effective muffler too. The
water inlet is low on this device, probably as low as one could be.
After lengthy preparation getting a 60mm exhaust
hose through the raised step arrangement beneath the companionway steps,
 I
have installed the waterlock as low as is possible, which I hope you can see
from the pictures.
I believe this arrangement will trap most of the
water which is left in the exhaust when the engine is stopped. Very little
pipe is lower than the lock now.
I include pictures of the arrangement
after the waterlock which might help anyone else who wants to fit a new engine.
Also shown is the diesel return that I joined into the breather pipe.
The anti-syphon break has to be at least 50mm
above the water-line. This unfortunately meant spoiling the beautiful
table.
The whole 'venture' has given me immense pleasure
and satisfaction, and I hope I can be of assistance to anyone else should they
be contemplating a similar project.
Peter Wright, Dream Machine
May 2007
Hidden away in inaccessible places are those cartridge fuses fitted in in-line
fuse holders. Once blown they have to be replaced and if you don't have a spare
you're scuppered.
When my VHF stopped working half way across Lime Bay, it took me quite a
while to deduce that there was on of these fuses hidden behind the woodwork -
yes the fuse had blown but so had the radio. Another time and place, the radio
stops working and I check the fuse and find it's not there. The fuse holder has
opened and the fuse fallen out into a totally inaccessible space.
When my anchor windlass wouldn't work It took me a while to find that
fuse-holder, a horrible and cheap device with dirty contacts.
So I now have a solution fit an in-line re-settable fuse. These are available
in limited ratings (6,8,10,15,20,25 Amps) so are no good for every application.
They can be purchased from www.farnell.com
part numbers for Fuses:
Fuse Farnell Part
number ETA Part number
6 Amp 597697
1610-21-6A
8 Amp 597703
1610-21-8A
10 Amp 597715
1610-21-10A
15 Amp 597727
1610-21-15A
20 Amp 597739
1610-21-20A
25 Amp 597740
1610-21-25A
Price £6.68 each and the in-line
holder part number 287143 price £1.50. Cut the existing holder from the wire
and crimp the holder in it's place using two but-splice connectors or similar.
Re-settable Fuse
Socket
But-Splice joint
Taranaki
 Interior Halogen Light Bulbs. Replacement G4 Halogen Light 10W Bulbs can be
bought at Maplin Electronics (Find your nearest store or buy online at www.maplin.co.uk)
Part number UN34M. Price £0.99
Mick
After sometimes struggling stowing my fully battened main, I wished I had
specified in mast reefing, the following made life much easier:
Fit small round PVC discs at the leech end of the sail, directly opposite the
mast shackle where the sail folds. When the sail is lowered, all you have to do
is align the discs over the centre of the boom, knowing that this will fold the
sail neatly and quickly.
The discs were fitted by a local sail maker during winter storage for just a few
pounds, and while he was about it I asked him to replace those horrible plastic
shackles with reinforced webbing sewn to the slides. This all makes for a much
easier and neater stowed sail.
Barry Powling, Khamsin {Brittany France}
At least a litre of water in the diesel tank containing 150 litres. This was initially discovered by inspection of the glass primary filter and no reason was forth coming until it was found that the "O" ring of the deck filler cap had disintegrated and broken. This turned out to be a very major task to remove this water and the question being had the igniters become rusted? Now where was the lowest point in the diesel tank and how to vacuum out both diesel and water via an inspection cover which would not lift more than 5 mm (yes, all 10 screws had been removed with difficulty). Not to prolong this
agonising tale: check the "O" ring and if you do have to replace it (and carry a spare!) ensure it is made of
"NITRILE" rubber otherwise it will disintegrate slowly with the diesel.
Diesel Bug......
In the diesel where-o-where does it come from, especially when one hopes one is buying from a busy and reputable supplier. This particular BUG was dealt with using
"Soltron" but there are others. Hopefully all's well before the season starts?
Hugh Rowan
In my 38, the fuel tank is situated beneath the side galley. Looking aft from
the galley sea cock hatch, the forward end of the fuel tank can be seen, at the
base of which a drain plug. Ideally when the tank contents are low, but can be
done with care when full, this plug can be removed and replaced by a tap
available from your local plumbing merchant. From this tap attach a short length
of fuel resistant tubing. This will assist in periodically running a small
amount of fuel off into a container. After the contents have settled, it is easy
to check for any water or bug content, thereby action can be taken, hopefully,
preventing more serious problems at a later date.
Notes:
There is a possibility of galvanic corrosion between the fuel tank and fuel
tap, depending on materials used. If in doubt, Nigel Calder's 'Boatowner's
Mechanical & Electrical Manual', has a comprehensive section on this. If you
make sure that the tank vent is sealed with tape and fuel taps are turned off,
this will minimise fuel leakage Don't forget to remove the tape and re open the
fuel taps
A recent test on fuel treatments gave recommendations on Fuelclear M68 &
Grotamar 71, as being the best additives.
Barry Powling, Khamsin {Brittany France}
3/11/2002
Diesel
Tank Corrosion in a Maxi 38+
We've had the following question from John Cook regarding his
Maxi 38+...
"In my 38, the fuel tank is situated beneath the side galley
exactly as described by Barry in his article above. The drain pipe has a
nut on the end as described and I suspect this arrangement may be repeated in
other Maxis.
This is Corsair’s 9th season and I have never had cause to
drain the tank, and so the nut has remained untouched. As I was removing a
bag of charcoal stowed in the locker space forward of the fuel tank (under the
cooker), a gush of diesel spurted into the bilge. Luckily I was able to
put my finger in the drain pipe to stem the flow until a suitable wooden bung
could be located (those bags of bungs ARE useful!).
Remove finger insert bung ASAP as of course yet more diesel
gushes out of a nearly full 200 litre tank during the process. After
cleaning out the diesel from the bilges the Nut was found, completely corroded
at the thread. The nut also appears to be stainless, but it had a copper
washer that must have enabled electrolysis to set in, given that there would
occasionally be some salt water sloshing about in that part of the bilge in a
good blow on Port tack.
It seems to me to be a bad design and I have sent the nut and
washer to Mike at SD Marine for discussion with Maxi HQ. I suggest
everyone carries out an inspection of the drain pipe and nut if it is similar to
the 38 design.
Meanwhile the wooden plug is absorbing fuel and allowing
seepage. A fuel grade transparent 20mm pipe has been fitted over the bung
and pipe and clamped with a jubilee clip. The other end of the pipe is
bunged and jubilee clipped. However, the weldings on the tank around the
now truncated drain pipe seem to be preventing the jubilee from seating
properly, and in spite of maximum tightening there is fuel in the pipe and
slight seepage into the bilge.
Barry talks about a tap from a plumbing merchant, but I have
no thread left.
How can I solve my problem? Is a stainless steel bung a
good idea? Suggestions urgently required and gratefully received please.
John Cook, Corsair, Poole – 14/09/2007
Richard provided these photos in response to a request from Bob Garrett on
the "Information Wanted" page.
"Bob, I've fitted a liferaft to Thor, hanging it off the pulpit. I'm
really pleased with it as I mounted it in a way that distributes the load down
the pushpit rather than hanging off as many do. The pictures say it all -
if not, shout and I'll take some more. The bracket on the inboard side is a sort
of meccano-looking dinghy chain-plate I got from the chandler. I used a piece of
rubber hose taped to the tubing to rest on the transom. I'm sure you can work
out the rest. The good thing is that you can rest the liferaft on the cradle
without the retaining strap and the flagpole still fits."
Richard Davidson, Thor
20/6/2007
A Maxi 1000
problem I had last year was when the loo stopped working - I blamed others for
blocking it, but found eventually that the holding tank was full of limescale -
like the pipes get but this time blocking the internal stainless pipes and 8 -
10 mm thick on the side wall of the tank. I took out the tank and chipped and
banged away to get it all out - a job worth doing this winter BEFORE IT BLOCKS
if boat is 10 years old+
Also there has
been a problem with the new PAR Brydon loos - they deleted a spring behind the
inlet valve and many paople are having flushing water priming problems. If they
are (as we are), they need to get the spring - this will fix it. They will
supply it free!
Derek
Gardner
Oct 2006
Rob Ware,
Eye of Horus adds... "We also had a blocked loo this
summer and like Derek I initially blamed the crew. It turned out that limescale
(up to 8 mm thick) in the hose between the loo and the holding tank had become
dislodged and totally blocked the pipe. I ended up replacing the pipe.
It is probably worth checking the internal condition of the pipe every couple of
years."
Chris Wildey
adds... "I used RydLyme Marine earlier this year when I was getting worried
about pipe blockage. It seems to have worked, and there is certainly no
limescale in the tank itself after 5 years. It would be interesting to
know how others have got on with this or other solutions.
www.rydlymemarine.co.uk
When we were in Sardinia on the Oyster 36? ketch & the water was reasonable
warm: at anchor in peaceful flat water we decided to test the M-O-B single
sheave blocks & line (test never undertaken before) which were specially carried
for the husband & wife crew for operation over their vertical transom with
extended bathing ladder permanently attached. One block was attached to end of
mizzen boom the other with a waist strap handed down to the fairly large person
(swim gear only) already in the water & with one foot on bottom rung of bathing
ladder. The idea was to pretend that only one member of crew was on board. Well
you have guess right: it took 2 men to try to haul the person up the bathing
ladder, it was near impossible to hold the haul line without a jammer on the top
block & we still did not succeed.
They & we have now invested in the following:- top block in a "double" sheave
with jammer & bottom block is a roller bearing double. In the Maxi case this
will be snap-shackled to end of main boom & led to a winch. Even this maybe
"difficult" to set up for single crew, moving boat plus wind & sea! compared to
our ideal conditions! Needs to be thought about & tested & not necessarily as
shown in yachting magazines & even they appear to find faults in test equipment.
Hugh
The standard propeller is a LEFT handed 3 bladed 17 pitch x 12 diameter - and
not Right as previously informed. Volvo have already ordered the correct
propellers.
Related topics:
Rope cutters,
Propellers and Anodes,
Anodes
The two and three bladed folding propellers fitted to Maxi Yachts currently
use anodes bolted to the propeller for galvanic protection, older propellers do
not have these anodes and rely on the leg anode for protection. The propeller
fitted with anodes is electrically isolated from the propeller shaft, the
propeller without anodes is not. Apparently, some rope cutter installations
bridge the electrical insulation between the shaft and the propeller.
We are told that Volvo do not agree to rope cutters being fitted to their
props and if you have a new propeller this invalidates the Volvo 3 year
warranty. Volvo have stated that all their dealers are instructed to inform
owners of this fact.
Hence owners who are contemplating a cutter should discuss it fully with an
authorised Volvo dealer who should also undertake the fitting and provide
confirmation of warranty.Related topics:
1100 propeller size, Propellers
and Anodes, Anodes
To improve the quality of your fresh water you can fit a filter in close to
the fresh water pump or under the sink. Simply purchase a suitable filter.
A cheap one comes from
www.screwfix.com for £18 or a smaller but
more expensive one (JABSCO) at £33 from your chandler.
You will need
suitable 3/4 inch BSB to hose adaptors for the screwfix filter.
You should note that the JABSCO filter contains small amount of silver, this
helps to prevent bacteria growing in the filter (sometimes filters with silver are
called "bacteria static").
I have ended up fitting my Screwfix filter to the kitchen cold water supply
and my Jabsco filter under the sink in the boat!
MGN
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