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Moonshine's Circumnavigation of Britain

We awake in Cambeltown to rain and overcast skies and not much breeze.  What there is is from the NE so we're able to motor sail till we get abeam the Sanda Isles where the wind freshens nicely and we're able to beam reach for 2 or 3 hours before it dies completely as we approach Glenarm.  Here we find plenty of room, in the cosy harbour, and tie up alongside in a visitor's berth.  After deflating and stowing the dinghy, which we'd towed for 500 miles, we walked into town for supplies.  As the evening drew in, a thick fog descended, and we watched in amazement as the local rowing fours practised up and down the harbour, looming out of the gloom with the cox yelling instructions.  All modern facilities here, with good showers and free internet access in the HM's office.

 With the next crew change planned for Dublin in 2 days time, we had to press on.  Visibility the next morning was not good, never more than a mile all day, but the passage to Ardglass looked straightforward and with no wind, we motored the 60 miles in exactly 10 hours.  Quite a lot of traffic coming in and out of Belfast and the radar was in constant use. 

The sun came out as we docked in the pleasant little harbour and almost instantly were presented with a gift of 5 mackerel and some crab claws by an adjacent fisherman.We were able to fill up with diesel in 2 x 25 litre cans from a nearby garage and, again, there was a good, modern, shower block.

 Our next target was Howth, 60 miles away, with not much sanctuary between.  Irritatingly the promised Easterly started as a South Easterly and veered again after an hour, remaining 30 degrees off the bow all day, which meant we couldn't hold our course.  At the same time, the sea state was lumpier than we'd been used to, so it was quite tough going beating into F4 and later F5.  By 4 o'clock we still had over 20miles to go and conditions were worsening so we put the engine on and motor-sailed.  At 5 o'clock we put a second reef in the jib and main and battled on.  It was 8.15 when we tied up in Howth, only to be told we would have to move so Liz was despatched to warn the cook, while the rest of us tidied up.  Scruffy, but elated, and swaying like mad, we found the warmest possible welcome in what turned out to be a very smart dining room.  It was Saturday night and Donald's birthday so we celebrated in style.  The surroundings and cuisine were 5 star and, to cap it all, the Chief Steward, on hearing that I was on a circumnavigation, presented me with a very fine volume telling the history of Howth Yacht Club. 

 Awoke on Sunday morning to a lovely day and delightful surroundings.  We enjoy a leisurely breakfast on deck, having showered etc in the most sumptuous club-house imagineable and then load Donald & Harriet into a waiting taxi for their short ride to Dublin airport.

 Our stay at Howth is extremely pleasant.  The club iself is extremely well appointed and is ideally located on the attractive promenade.  The village is a short walk away and we are able to find an amenable wine merchant who agrees to deliver our order to the boat: our original stocks by now being  seriously depleted.  There is a festive air on the Sunday as an open air market is set up on the prom and the quayside iteslf contains some wonderful fishmongers , grocery stores and restaurants.

 On Monday we walk to the local station and take a 30 minute train ride into Dublin City.  After a stroll through St.Stephen's Green we take a tour of Trinity College, which includes a visit to the Book of Kells, beautifully displayed along with several other illuminated manuscripts.  Then back to the boat in time to greet our next crew, Douglas Pike, who is due to fly in from Stansted.

On the Tuesday we set off South for Arklow, having filled up with diesel at the Club, but, again, we're bedevilled by a lack of breeze.  Every now and then the wind picks up and we're able to enjoy some glorious sailing, and benefitting from 3-4 knots of tide round Wicklow Head.  By half past five we enter the river mouth and decide to head for the new marina on the North Bank.  This proves to be pretty small, but we manage to squeeze in somehow, and discover yet another well-appointed shower block next to the Marina Office.  From the marina to town was quite a long walk but took us past the local sailing club where, from several members we chatted to, we learned that Wexford, my next planned stop, was actually a no-no.  The entrance channel was just too tortuous and badly defined, and none of the locals used it.

 This left us in a bit of a quandary.  The safe harbours past Wexford were actually not much closer to Milford Haven, our destination, than we currently were, and the winds were likely to be against us in any case.  It was disappointing that Douglas wouldn't get more sailing and that we wouldn't see a bit more of Ireland but the best plan seemed to be to leave our berth whilst it was still light and make a passage overnight that would allow us to make landfall at daybreak.  This was duly agreed, and we set off in late afternoon, into a lumpy sea and with a bit more wind than expected.  As we progressed, though, the evening turned fine and as the tide turned the sea flattened and we started to enjoy ourselves, even though we were having to motor.  It turned into the most beautiful sunset, followed by a clear starry night, catching sight every now and then of a ferry plying between Rosslare and Fishguard.  Dolphins would appear every now and then and, as dawn broke, we had a fine view of the Welsh Coast.  We picked up one of the many moorings in Dale Bay, at the mouth of the Haven and cooked ourselves a grand breakfast before turning in for an hour or three.

 Contacting the HM at Neyland Marina, we learned there wasn't much room, if any, so we hurriedly set off for the 10mile trip up river, past the tatty looking oil terminals, towards the Cleddau Bridge.

 Entrance to the Marina was pretty narrow, and we were lucky to find a berth on a hammerhead, rafted outside a larger vessel that appeared to be laid up.  This was to be our home for the next 3 nights: our next guests were not due to arrive till the Monday and Douglas was off to join his family on holiday just up the coast.  He did, though, spend the first day with us on an expedition by bus to the lovely city of St.David's, which was great fun whilst, the next day, Liz and I took a bus to Manorbier and walked back along the stunning coastal path.

Rowland and Janet arrived as the weather started to change.  Winds had been from the SW for 2 or 3 days, but we were promised a "window" of North Westerlies for 24 hours, though possibly top end of F5, maybe F6.  This was a difficult situation.  Janet had no sailing experience, and it promised to be rough, with the South Westerlies having built up a swell over the past few days.  We set off in late afternoon for Dale Bay and picked up another mooring.  It wasn't comfortable, but it was safe.  It didn't look as though we were going to be able to get to Lundy (only safe in light winds) or Padstow (on a lee shore), but would have to drive for Land's End.

 The morning wasn't any better, though there wasn't any Southing in the wind, which was something.  Having phoned the coastguard and listened to the mid-day shipping forecast I decided to go.  We prepared the main with 3 reefs and cast off.  By dawn we were off Land's End and the wind was dropping.  It had been F6 all the way, it had been rough, and I had a sprained ankle to show for it, which was to handicap me for the rest of the voyage.  I hadn't been conscious of it happening, but it must have occurred when we got hit by a rogue wave about 3 in the morning.  I was standing in the heads at the time and, by trying to brace myself against the violent twist the boat was making, I must have wrenched my ankle.  As I'd banged my head, and my thumb was bleeding from a scrape on the loo-seat cover I didn't notice the sprain at the time.

Reed's is pretty disparaging about Newlyn, but I didn't feel we were in any state to go on to Falmouth, so headed for the harbour entrance.No response on VHF from the Harbourmaster, though.  Imagine our delight when we spied a brand new pontoon with several vacant berths.  A week earlier and we'd have had to take pot luck rafting alongside a trawler, or the harbour wall. 

 We spent the next 2 days recuperating and arguing with the local fishermen and anyone else who wanted to voice an opinion.  We never met the Harbourmaster, or his assistant.  It turned out that the pontoon had been funded by DEFRA purely for the use of the local fishing industry.  The problems were: it didn't look like a fishing dock, it looked like a yachting pontoon  - and there were other yachts moored on it, and there were no notices to explain the situation.  They wanted us to move, and threatened to cut our lines if we didn't but, in the end, we settled our differences and staid put until we were ready to leave.

 From then on, I didn't see much inland, as I was pretty well confined to the boat.  We had a good passage to Falmouth, with a Northerly F4 and plenty of sunshine and then a day under engine to Plymouth under hot, flat calm conditions.  As we enter Sutton Harbour, one of many marinas in Plymouth, we catch sight of Morning Star (RHYC president's bateau) moored alongside.

 We have an excellent dinner at Bistro Bene, right alongside the marina and who, usefully, have their phone number visible through binoculars, and then say good-bye to Rowley & Janet after breakfast the next morning.

 Liz sets off on her own, to explore the Hoe, and Smeaton's Tower, and watch the powerboat racing taking place in the harbour.  Mike Graham (the president) drops by for a chat: he's returning from participating in Cork Week.

 Fortunately the marina has excellent laundry facilities and we're ready for Philip and Judy Worthington who arrive the next day - an easy train journey from Reading.

Next day, Tuesday, is a beautiful day, but with F2 at the most, from the South.  After fuelling up, we set off about 09.30, arriving at Dartmouth at 16.30 where, for some inexplicable reason, we're directed into what must be the best berth in town, on the inside of the Town Quay, right opposite the square.  With no need to vacate in the morning, we can relax.

 With Portland Bill to round the next day, it's important to get the tidal timing right, so I judged an 11.00 start would be OK.  It turned out to be one of our best day's sailing with clear blue skies and F4/5 from the Nor nor West.  The only puzzle was why we were the only boat heading East, at that time? Reed's, and the pilot books, do their best to put the fear of God into anyone rounding Portland Bill, without due care and attention,  and I spent the day checking and re-checking my calculations.  There were droves of boats going the other way.

 The wind was a good F5 by the time we got to the Bill at 1830 and we zoomed round, about 50metres off, as advised, with the sea flat and negligible tide.  Phew! Unfortunately, our course to Weymouth now involved beating into the same Northerly wind that had helped us previously, and we were another 2 hours doing the last 8 miles, entering the harbour about 20.15 and having to raft up 3 out.  Liz did a wonderful job of fetching fish, chips & mushy peas.  We're tired but contented.

 A bit more cloud about, on Thursday morning, but still a good F5 from the NW, and we set off for Lymington with one reef in the main.  As we round St.Alban's Head the wind starts to back and we gybe, thereafter enjoying a wonderful beam reach as far Hurst Point,and the North Channel, which I've chosen in preference to the Needles Channel (not having had experience of either).  Round safely, and into the Lymington River shortly after 6 o'clock.  P & J treat us to an excellent dinner in the Yacht Haven restaurant, which is fun and lively.

Not much option about our passage to Hamble Point, the following day, a distance of 12nm, but which takes us a measured 22nm with serious tide against: sometimes as much as 3kts.  We plod on under engine & jib alone.

Hamble Point Marina is where Moonshine started her UK existence, so I go and say hello to the chaps at SD Marine, getting my usual frosty greeting.  (Ha Ha!) Philip & Judy get a taxi to Southampton station and our son William arrives the following day.  Poor chap has already done this leg before, but it's the only time he could take off.

 With tides, and fuel, playing a big part in the next few days passage planning calculations, we made an overnight stop at Gosport (where we re-fuelled) and then set off early on the Wednesday for Eastbourne.  By the afternoon the sun was out and we had a F4/5 from the SW: couldn't be better! By half past three we were entering the lock at Sovereign Harbour and snugly berthed alongside pontoon 'B'.  Dinner in town at an excellent Thai restaurant.

 A rude shock the next day.  Wind's on the nose.  We spend most of the day motoring, but have an enjoyable day past interesting coastline and dodging the ferries at Dover.  It's hot, and quite late when we get to Ramsgate, which turns out to be full.  Eventually find a very pleasant berth rafted one out against an old gaff cutter.  Early start planned for the morning.

Slip our lines just before 06.00 and hoist our main in the harbour.  It's a good breeze, but pretty well dead astern, and cloudy.  I decide to go outside Kentish Knock, for ease of navigation, and this works quite well - particularly after altering course at Longsand Head, as the wind is still from the South.  Just enough other boats about to make it interesting, and we catch the favourable tide for a lot of the way, including the last hour or so up-river.  About half past one we're abeam of Landguard.  I've completed my circuit and logged just over 2000 nautical miles.

At exactly 3 o'clock we're back in our home berth at Royal Harwich Yacht Club and 5 minutes later the welcoming party arrive! We've done it.

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Last modified: January 03, 2007